Problem solving ...

[Air bubbles] [Vehicle rivets] [Door edges] [Vehicle panels]
[Problems lifting the vinyl from the silicon release backing]
[Notes on removal of old decals]

AIR BUBBLES:

If any air bubbles are present, and they won't push out, use a pin or scalpel blade to carefully pop them, then squeeze out the water/air. (Note: It's always best to prick one edge of the bubble, rather than the centre. You can then push the water/air out towards the pinhole.) Use the back of your finger nail to re-flatten the bubble area. Repeat the pin-prick method if required.

VEHICLE RIVETS:

If you come across any rivets, or similar, whilst fitting your graphics, the following method can be used to enable a neat finish: After flattening the surrounding area, push the vinyl towards the rivet with your finger until you end up with a small air bubble. Carefully make two or three pin-pricks through the vinyl, around the rivet, and use the squeegee, firm credit card or your finger nail to press the vinyl into the edges of the rivet - pushing any air out towards the pin-holes. (Try to avoid splitting the vinyl during the process.) (Though not always essential, it can sometimes help if some heat is applied to the surface by means of an electric heat gun or hot hair dryer.) If fitted using the 'wet application' method you may need to wait a while for it to dry before getting a satisfactory result. (Always take care when using any heat against paintwork and glass. Keep the heat gun well away from the surface - and also be careful not to overheat your own fingers!)

DOOR EDGES:

If you encounter any door edges whilst fitting your graphics, just continue for the time-being as if they weren't there! Flatten the decals to the surface and carefully remove the application tape as described in the above 'fitting instructions'. Now you need to press the vinyl gently into the gap with your finger, and then carefully cut down the side of the door edge, (letting the craft-knife blade be guided downwards by the door edge itself - taking care not to scratch any paintwork of course), so that you are left holding a thin strip of vinyl - which can then be discarded. Flatten the newly cut edges of the vinyl with your finger again. (Though not always essential, it can sometimes help if some heat is applied to the surface by means of an electric heat gun or hot hair dryer.) If fitted using the 'wet application' method you may need to wait a while for it to dry before getting a satisfactory result. (Always take care when using any heat against paintwork and glass. Keep the heat gun well away from the surface - and also be careful not to overheat your own fingers!)

VEHICLE PANELS:

It's always best to try to avoid fitting the vinyl graphics over 'deep' vehicle panels, but sometimes it is necessary. Should such an occasion arise, the following guide may come in useful: Flatten the decals to the surface and remove the application tape as described in the above 'fitting instructions'. Now you need to gently press the vinyl into any panel edges and mouldings using your finger or thumb. If it's just a shallow ridge, the vinyl should mould quite easily. But if it is quite deep, you may need to apply some gentle heat, using an electric heat gun or hot hair dryer. This softens the vinyl allowing it to be moulded more easily. (Always take care when using any heat against paintwork and glass. Keep the heat gun well away from the surface - and also be careful not to overheat your own fingers!)

PROBLEMS LIFTING THE VINYL FROM THE SILICON RELEASE BACKING:

On very rare occasions, especially after the graphics have been stored for quite a while before fitting, the vinyl lettering may not lift up from the silicon release backing sheet straight away. This is easily overcome by doing the following: Place the graphics (still on the backing sheet) on a firm surface, (facing upwards), and press the decals down using a squeegee, firm credit card or cloth, by using firm strokes over the application tape. This gives the application tape an extra hold ready to lift the graphics. If you still seem to be having a problem, carefully turn the complete sheet over, so that the graphics are now facing downwards. Now remove the silicon release backing from the application tape/graphics, (pressing down any stubborn areas as you go.) Once the silicon backing is removed you will be left with the graphics, on the application tape, ready to be fitted to your required surface.

NOTES ON REMOVAL OF OLD SELF-ADHESIVE VINYL:

Use an electric heat gun or hot hair dryer to gently warm the vinyl to be removed, taking care not to overheat any glass or painted surfaces etc. Carefully lift one corner of the vinyl, using a blade or window-scraper etc., and peel away the vinyl. Repeat on all required sections until completely removed. Any slight glue residue left behind can easily be removed using a 'Tar and Glue Remover', (which is available from most car accessory shops), or white spirit.
Important: Please take care when using the extremely hot heat guns, especially where glass, paintwork and other similar surfaces are concerned. They are quite safe and efficient to use, providing care is taken. Always hold the heat gun 'well away' from the surface, and your own hands, while you work. Just enough warmth to allow the vinyl to be softened is all that is necessary. Always handle heat guns with care and keep them away from children. Also always allow them time to cool down afterwards before storing away.

These instructions, as well as any others on this site, are merely intended as a guide to fitting our various products. Although we endeavour to be as efficient as possible with our instructions, and include as many details as we can, we cannot be held responsible for any problems, damages or indeed injuries, which might occur. As with all DIY projects, the person or persons carrying out the work is/are held responsible. [Terms and Conditions]